Charming B&Bs on the Cotswold Way: A Hiker's Experience of Quaint Stays from Chipping Campden to Bath

The Cotswold Way, famous among hikers for its picturesque views, quaint villages, and gentle inclines, is found nestled in the English countryside. At a distance of about 100 miles, it stretches from the town of Chipping Campden down to the beautiful, historic city of Bath. 

Introduction

My mother and I cherished the idea of backpacking through Europe, but we were not necessarily your biggest outdoor girls. The thought of lugging all of our stuff with us 10-15 miles a day didn't exactly sound exciting. However, a friend introduced us to hiking companies that transport your luggage to B&Bs while you hike along the trail. We were immediately sold but, having never stayed in a Bed & Breakfast,we had no clue of what to expect. 

Painswick to Dursley

Our journey on the Cotswold Way began exactly halfway through in the quaint town of Painswick. We arrived at our B&B, The Tibbiwell Lodge, pretty late at night due to travel delays. My expectation upon entering the first house was that it would function similarly to a hotel, equipped with a small check-in desk ready with keys to our room. However, this notion couldn’t have been further from reality. Instead, we were greeted by a fairly large golden lab and a petite woman in her nightclothes. She escorted us to our room, asked what we wanted for breakfast, and then went to bed herself. The next morning, we met the other tenants over breakfast and before embarking on the first 15 miles of the Cotswold Way.

En route to Dursley, we gratefully entered arguably the best B&B of our whole trip. The Woodland House,owned and operated by the sweetest middle-aged English couple you could imagine, was an absolute gem. Their house was full of guests, charm, and amazing amenities that truly set them apart from the rest. Each room bore a sweet, individual name; fancy bath products were provided, and each room included a list of nearby restaurants and delivery numbers — because, let’s be honest, no one wants to walk after such a long hike.

Old Sodbury to Bath

Leaving Dursley, we eventually ended up in Old Sodbury, where we stayed at the Sodbury House. This B&B came closest to an actual hotel experience, being the first we encountered with a check-in desk and a noticeably large estate. Upon entering, we were asked to leave our hiking shoes at the entrance to minimize mud tracking throughout the house. Our room was the largest we had to that point, and the continental breakfast the next morning was much more formal than those of the previous accommodations. 

Finally, we reached our last Bed & Breakfast, The Belmont, in Bath. Exhausted from hiking 50 miles, the last thing we wanted was to explore the town on foot. Similar to the previous B&B, this one also closely resembled a hotel experience. By this point, we had realized that all Bed & Breakfasts are vastly different, not adhering to a single format as many hotels and short-term rentals do. 

Final Thoughts

Having never stayed in a Bed & Breakfast prior to this trip, my mother and I were understandably apprehensive at the outset. However, our nerves were almost instantly alleviated once we became acquainted with our hosts and fellow hikers at each B&B. Many of the hosts, being avid hikers themselves, provided amazing tips and tricks as they knew the terrain well and where people usually lose their way. Overall, it was an incredible experience that allowed us to experience the small villages along the Cotswold Way in ways we probably wouldn’t have been able to do otherwise.